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Smoothing it Out: Exfoliate Your Skin

30 Days of Beauty, Day 4: Smooth Your Skin and Prep it for Makeup and Products With The Right Exfoliation

Skin exfoliation is a fancy term for scrubbing dead skin cells from the body. The very top layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, is composed of dead skin cells that help protect the skin from sun damage as well as toxins and pollutants. It also helps to lock moisture in the skin. But too may dead cells on the layer of the skin can cause the skin to look ashy or dull. Removing the dead skin cells also gets rid of the dirt and oils that have accumulated on the top of the skin and preps the skin for treatment ingredients or for a smooth makeup application.

Exfoliating Skin Care

Easy Exfoliation With Scrubs

The simplest way to exfoliate is to scrub the face gently with a scrub and then rinse with cool water. Even a rough washcloth rubbed with some pressure will provide light exfoliation. Facial scrubs come in many forms, but it is bet to look for something fairly gentle. Look for terms such as “light scrub,” “buffing beads,” or “sensitive skin” to avoid an irritating product. For those who are scrubbing fanatics and like a heavy scrub, ingredients such as sugar or apricot hull often provide a heavier exfoliation. Or look for terms such as “microdermabrasion” on the cream’s label

Need a simple and easy gentle scrub? Try this DIY tip from Elvira at The Pink Sith Blog:

“ A beautiful face starts with a great foundation.  If your skin is looking dull and tired and your foundation just isn't applying the way you like, try a quick baking soda scrub.

Take about a teaspoon of baking soda and mix it with your regular cleanser (foaming or cream, it works with both) Add a little water to the Baking Soda/Cleanser mixture to make it foam a bit.  Gently massage the Cleanser/Baking Soda on your face making sure to avoid the delicate eye and lip area.

When rinsing off, move your fingertips in a circular motion all over your face.  Dry your face as usual and follow with your regular skin care. (Avoid AHA/BHAs if you have sensitive skin and if this is the first time using the baking soda scrub.) Your skin will be so smooth and perfect for applying foundation.

This is a great exfoliator for even sensitive skin, the amount of pressure you apply will determine how much scrubbing your skin gets. But remember when it comes to your face and exfoliation, less is more!”

Also don’t forget to exfoliate your lips!  Toni at ToniizBeauty provides this tip: “To exfoliate your lips, wet your toothbrush and gently rub on your lips. The apply your favorite lip balm for soft lips! This will also help your lipstick application to go on more smoothly.”

Chemical Exfoliation

Other exfoliation methods involve using toners, serums, or creams that contain chemical exfoliating ingredients.

Retinoids are derived from Vitamin A and can be found in creams. Dermatologists also use them to prevent acne, treat wrinkles and perform chemical peels on patients. They were first used to treat acne, then people noticed that they seemed to rejuvenate skin. What they do is increase the turnover rate of the skin cells on the surface of the skin, which causes new cells to grow and take their place. They also support the growth of the layer of collagen beneath the skin. Collagen keeps skin elastic.

Other substances that help to exfoliate the skin are fruit acids or alpha hydroxy acids, which are not all necessarily from fruit. One of these substances is obtained from sugar cane and another is lactic acid, from sour milk. They are often used in chemical peels, which also cause dead cells to slough away from the surface of the skin.

Fruit acids are rather mild exfoliates and like retinoids they have substances that loosen or destroy the protein bonds that keep dead skin cells attached to the layer of the skin. They also prompt the body to make more collagen. Very strong applications of these exfoliants might irritate the skin and cause redness, stinging and dryness. A person who’s being treated with alpha hydroxyl acids or with retinol should also use a sunscreen when they go out into the sun, as the dead skin cells that form a layer of protection have been removed.

Beta hydroxy acids are stronger than alpha hydroxy acids and can remove the dead skin cells more effectively. One beta hydroxy acid is salicylic acid, which is related to aspirin. Trichloroacetic peels not only exfoliate, but can repair blemishes, fine wrinkles and discolorations. They are sometimes used with retinoids or fruit acids.

Microdermabrasion

For even deeper exfoliation, some people turn to microdermabrasion. This is a gentler form of dermabrasion. Both procedures remove the skin’s outer layer and do much more than remove dead skin cells. Microdermabrasion is an outpatient operation that’s done in the dermatologist’s office. In one type, miniscule crystals of aluminum oxide or another substance sand off the top layer of the skin. At the same time a vacuum tool sucks up the excess exfoliant and the dead skin cells. In another type of microdermabrasion, the dermatologist removes the upper layer of dead skin cells with a wand tipped with an industrial diamond. Home Microdermabrasion has also now become popular, with a number of great home products on the market.

What do bloggers prefer?

Beauty bloggers in general love exfoliation, whether it be by scrub, cream, serum, microdermabrasion or peels.

In regard to brands, Emma J. the model and blogger behind The Journey of an NY Actress  says “I am a huge fan of  Burts Bees citrus facial scrub, it keeps my skin from looking dull. It is gentle enough to use daily. Living in a city we have pollution coming from every direction so our skin really has a lot to deal with on a daily basis.” Emma also swears by monthly Microdermabrasion.

Here at Beauty and Fashion Tech, we love the Personal Microderm and the Skinsonic or Clarisonic for home use. Read more about them in our Home Microdermabrasion Buyer’s Guide.

For scrubs and serums, we are fans of DermaDoctor Poetry in Lotion, a retinoid lotion. You an read our previous review here: Poetry in Lotion Review.  We also love Bioelements Pumic Peel, a fine grain scrub that can give light exfoliation with light pressure and heavy exfoliation with heavy pressure. Here is our Pumice Peel Review.

Finally for at home peels, the Brazilian Peel is a great at home Glycolic peel that is on the gentle side, yet packs a powerful punch.

Disclosures: Beauty and Fashion Tech at times reviews products provided by a representative of the company. When we do so, we specifically state so. We also use affiliate links. For more, please see the disclosure page

Home Microdermabrasion: Personal Microderm Review

Home microdermabrasion can be a rather effective treatment for a variety of skin problems. Microdermabrasion can address melasma (a personal concern of mine), acne, acne scars, fine lines and wrinkles, age spots, and it is good for overall soft skin and brightening. Aside from exfoliating well, dermabrasion removes the dead skin cells through suction, which allows other treatment products to absorb better. I purchased a home microdermabrasion system, the Personal Microderm which I have used a couple of times now. So far, I think it is a keeper and plan to test it more, so watch for a follow up review in a few months. The device costs $179, which is considerably cheaper than having professional treatments done (those often run over $100 per treatment). The device is also now covered and is our top recommendation in our complete home microdermabrasion buyer's guide. You can view that and learn about a number of additional devices here:  Home Microdermabrasion Reviews.

Using the Home Microdermabrasion System: The Personal Microderm is incredibly easy to use. Simply plug it in and choose from two types of disks - The blue moderate disk for sensitive skin, or the green coarse disk for tougher skin. These disks also come in two sizes – small for facial areas, and large for body areas. Hold the skin tight and move the device in vertical or horizontal lines across the face without lingering in any one area. The device exfoliates the skin, while creating a suction, so it very much feels like you are vacuuming your face. The treatment can be made gentle by using a blue disk with light pressure, or more aggressive by using a green disk with heavier pressure. Home microdermabrasion treatments initially should be done once each week.

I started with the small blue disk and quickly moved up to the green. I have pretty tough skin and did not feel like I got a good treatment until I moved to the green. Sensitive types will want to stick with the blue though. The small disk works well for much of the face, but I moved to the large disk for my main cheek areas and forehead. I had a bit of difficulty with either size keeping suction on my forehead area, but I eventually got it, and I had no problems anywhere else. It doesn’t take long to treat the entire face—maybe 10 minutes tops.

Effectiveness of the Personal Microderm: In terms of results, I noticed softer skin immediately. For achieving nice soft skin, this is the best home exfoliation that you can get in my opinion. The device is effective at removing dead skin cells, and the suction removes them from your face. In regard to melasma, I did not notice any improvement on my main areas, but I also have only done three treatments. As much as anyone with melasma would like a quick cure, there isn’t really anything that can be done at home that will get rid of melasma or serious hyperpigmentation in that short of a times.  I would not expect to see anything noticeable before eight treatments or more. What I did notice in three weeks was a little bit of lightening (we are talking rather tiny here, don't get overly excited)  in a new area of pigmentation (those typically lighten easier) and some general improvement in my acne. Although next week I will be posting about how other products have pretty much cured my acne anyway. But the overall skin smoothing and such was pretty impressive even upon the first treatment. I’ll post an update a few months from now on how it works on tougher areas of melasma. I had some success a few years ago with professional microdermabrasion, but it wasn't overwhelming and I wasn't consistent in getting treatment, so I am curious about how the home system will work on that. Regardless I find it a worthwhile investment in terms of general skin care.

After Effects or Side Effects of Home Microdermabrasion: Microdermabrasion can be a bit deceptive in that it feels gentler than it really is, especially with the home microderm device, so start gentle and move up to more aggressive over time.  After a treatment, it is normal for your skin to be a bit pink. Because of that, be careful with applying treatment serums immediately after a microdermabrasion treatment. Instead, apply a soothing moisturizer and be sure to wear sunscreen. You should be wearing sunscreen all the time anyway, but Microdermabrasion makes the skin more sensitive to sun, making this even more important, especially if you want to have any hope at treating dark spots, such as melasma.

Recommended Adjunct Products: For those battling melasma, I recommend trying PCA Skin (pHaze 13) Pigment Gel (Hydroquinone version) PCA Skin (pHaze 13) Pigment Gel HQ Free (Hydroquinone free version) as a serum, along with your favorite gentle moisturizer in order to maximize the effect of the microdermabrasion. I personally use DHC White Sunscreen for my oily skin to get moisture, sunscreen and lightening all in one.  Anyone fighting wrinkles who like retinoids may like Derma Doctor Poetry in Lotion, although I also recommend caution using a retinol product too close to any given microderm treatment since retinol can also irritate the skin—be especially careful with that if you have sensitive skin.  Those with acne might want to try Arcona products. I’ll be raving about those next week!

Related Reviews:

PCA Skin Care Melasma Treatment

DHC White Sunscreen

Derma Doctor Poetry in Lotion

Want it? Buy it!

Disclosures: Beauty and Fashion Tech at times reviews products provided by a representative of the company. When we do so, we specifically state so. We also use affiliate links. For more, please see the disclosure page

Top Skin Care Products For Any Skin Type

Best Skin Care Products

I like lists. So here is my list of the best skin care products for every skin type. I have also included a non-exhaustive list of product suggestions with links to my reviews in those instances where I have reviewed the product. Do you have a top skin care product that you would add or substitute? Leave a comment!

Number 5: A chemical exfoliating product. Use of a product such as glycolic acid, retinol, or even salicylic acid (a common beta-hydroxy acid acne product), will help keep your skin blackhead and blemish free. These products break up the chemicals holding those dead skin cells together. This increases cell turnover and assists in dissolving black heads, keeping skin looking fresh and youthful. If you have hyperpigmentation or melasma, glycolic or retinol products can be particularly good used in combination with skin lightening products. Look at it this way, less dead skin cells in the way means more active product is getting to the cells that need it. Finally they can have anti-wrinkle effects, especially the retinol products. So these products have multiple benefits! A few favorites to try:

Glycolic products: Peter Thomas Roth Glycolic Acid 10% Clarifying Gel

Retinol Products: Worth looking at is Derma Doctor Poetry in Lotion. This is one of my favorites and one with the highest concentration allowed over the counter (1%) but that is also gentle on the skin. A good drugstore version is also RoC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Serum.

Salicylic: Neutrogena Clear Pore Oil-Controlling Astringent, Salicylic Acid Acne Medication is a good basic and affordable salicylic acid. Or check out these salicylic and glycolic mixes: For 5% glycolic and 1% salicylic, try MD Formulations Glycare Acne Gel. You can up it to 10% glycolic and 2% salicylic with Peter Thomas Roth AHA/BHA Acne Clearing Gel. I have used the Peter Thomas Roth product with good results.

Number 4: A vitamin C product. Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that can help your skin recover from exposure to daily pollutants and stresses. It also can help lighten hyperpigmentation or melasma and generally even out skin tone. Some favorites to try:

High potency: GreatSkin® Vibran C Creme with Ceramides 1.25 oz. (pictured). This creme has 10% stable vitamin C with moisturizing ceramides.

Good value: Items from the Lumene Radiant C+ line (Read review here: Lumene Radiant C ).

Number 3: A good moisturizer for your skin type. All skin types can benefit from the regular use of a moisturizer, even oily skin. For those with acne prone skin who worry about moisturizer use, consider a light cream or gel product. Many acne products dry the skin and cause it to increase oil production as a rebound effect. The use of a moisturizing products can actually help prevent acne in the long run. Some items to try:

Oily Skin: DHC Mild Lotion is a great light moisturizer for all skin types.  Another really good one for those who are acne prone is Murad Skin Perfecting Lotion (Acne).

Normal Skin:  DHC Rich Moisture is a great choice. There is also the favorite of many: Estee Lauder DayWear.

Dry skin:  I really love Prescriptives Intensive Rebuilding Moisturizer read review here: Prescriptives PX Intensive Rebuilding Moisturizer. Unfortunately both are expensive. For a good value, consider trying one of the Lumene products (read review here: Lumene Skin Care.

For really dry skin or as a specialty product. I think Creme de la Mer can't be beat. It is expensive, but a little goes a long way and this stuff really can moisturize with no irritation. Tip: Try it under your nose when it gets chapped from a cold.

Number 2: Water. OK, so it isn't necessarily a product, but drinking a lot of water is one of the best things you can do for your skin. You can also look fashionable carrying certain bottles. Plain water is on of the best skin care products out there!

Number 1: Sunscreen. If you do nothing else, at least wear sunscreen. Aim for full spectrum coverage with a minimum of SPF 15, and SPF 30 being optimal. Regular use of sunscreen fulfills multiple functions. It prevents skin cancer, it delays wrinkling and hyperpigmentation, and for most people it also can double as a light moisturizer. Think that it is OK to skip sunscreen because you need vitamin D from the sun? Think again. You can get your dose of vitamin D from the sun in matter of a few minutes. Better yet, get it from a multi-vitamin or fortified milk. If you want a tan, try some of the many excellent self tanning products that are on the market.

Some good sunscreens to try: For full spectrum physical blockers with high SPF, my favorite is Total Block UVA/UVB SPF 65. This is full wavelength blocking and is great for people with melasma, skin cancer concerns, and hyperpigmentation. But it certainly is not limited to those people and is good for anyone concerned about the sun.

For a medium SPF full spectrum sunscreen Neutrogena makes a good one. Or try the much talked about full spectrum chemical blocker found in La Roche-Posay Anthelios.

for more see our post on the Best Sunscreen.



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Disclosures: Beauty and Fashion Tech at times reviews products provided by a representative of the company. When we do so, we specifically state so. We also use affiliate links. For more, please see the disclosure page